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Jun 29, 2010

Love on the spot

by: Aleksander Kovacevic
Stockholm is a city full of love. But where do you find it? We ventured out among bingo halls, leafy parks and lakeside cliffs to get Stockholm couples to describe their own special places of the heart.

The Bingo Hall, Hötorget metro station, 13.12. Andreas Höistad, 38, and Ingrid Sefastsson, 22. 



Where history was made. Photo: Johannes Helje

Stressed Stockholmers hurry through the metro station, few of them noticing a bingo hall that stands somewhat anonymously between a candy store and a store selling music instruments. Can you find romance here? Yes, apparently — at least Andreas and Ingrid did.

"Andreas kidded me that he used to sneak in for a 'bingo card and a coffee' if the metro train was late," says Ingrid. "So to take the drama out of the whole dating thing, we decided to have our first date at a pretty boring bingo hall at the Hötorget metro station."

Describe the date!
"We bought coffee, and Andreas bought a bag of small cookies which he gobbled down in no time. We were given mauve pens and a crash course in bingo. It’s actually quite difficult. All the various games, different directions and combinations, while the caller’s speeding along really fast. So anyway, we had quite a cozy time of it. We shared a card, the die-hard bingo ladies had like ten each."

Did you win?
"No, not a penny — but it was a good date," says Ingrid. "Then we went to the movies, so it’s a historic place for us."

 

Monteliusvägen, 14.10. Marie, 57, and Molly, 11.



Photo: Johannes Helje

The Monteliusvägen walking path is like stepping into a postcard of Stockholm. A gravel path takes you along the high cliffs that rise above Söder Mälarstrand, with a view across to Kungsholmen, the Old Town and City Hall. At intervals there are wooden benches where you can rest tired feet, but Marie and little Molly are not interested in them.

"We live close by so we usually take a walk here every day," says Marie. "We've been doing that since we moved here three years ago."

Why do you like walking here?
"Because of the view, of course. Also, Molly likes going for walks here. It’s such a pleasant place, and so beautiful."

 

Skeppsbron, 15.41. Bengt Pettersson, 62, and Gun-Britt Halsius, 64.



Photo: Johannes Helje

Skeppsbron is the eastern edge of the Old Town and one of Stockholm’s most popular places for walks. On one side, elegant 17th century buildings rise up and on the other lie the waters of Saltsjön.

If you stop at one of the many outdoor cafés along the quay you can enjoy the panoramic view. The Grand Hotel and Blasieholmen. The Af Champman schooner moored alongside the islet of Skeppsholmen. The slopes and rises of Kastellholmen. The giant Finland ferries and the heights of Söder. It’s easy to see why Bengt and Gun-Britt like coming here as a couple.

"We live nearby so we usually take an evening walk here," says Bengt.

What is the attraction, besides the view?
"The to-ing and fro-ing, all the boats and the water," says Gun-Britt. "We usually sit down on one of the benches and just enjoy it."

"And sometimes we take a glass of wine at the Engelen restaurant just round the corner," adds Bengt.

 

Vanadislunden, 17.20. Theodora Alexander, 23, and Sami Tolppi, 29.



Photo: Johannes Helje

Evening is drawing in and the view from Vanadislunden’s highest point, overlooking the rooftops of Vasastan, is magnificent. The park is a popular place among local residents, who often come here with a small picnic or just something to drink. Below is a beautiful church, Stefanskyrkan. And this particular spot means a great deal to Thea and Sami.

"Sami and I lay here on the grass on the First of May last year and gazed deep into each other’s eyes while warm tears flowed slowly down our cheeks."

Why were you crying?
"It was love that made us cry. We wanted so badly to say those three golden words, but we knew it was too early, so we cried instead."

That’s really sweet. Are you often here?
"Yes, Vanadislunden means a lot to us, so we’re going to come here at least five times this summer," says Thea, laughing.

For couples who’ve never heard of this park, why should they come here?
"There’s something special about Vanadislunden," says Thea. "It’s never crowded and the few who come here are either newly in love, newborn babies or dog owners."

 

Östgötagatan 16, 17.55. Henrik Hallberg, 32, Maija Mårtensgård, 30, and little Nina, 2 months.



Photo: Johannes Helje

In some parts of Södermalm that are not unlike New York’s lively back streets — with their Thai restaurants and small vintage stores stretching away — you come across artists, rock stars and the odd drunk strolling around. Outside a huge brick building without windows, we meet Henrik and Maija, for whom this spot is particularly special.

"Maija proposed to me here, quite spontaneously when we were out for a walk on a rather disagreeable late winter’s day in 2005," says Henrik. "No fanfares or rolling drums, exactly, just a sudden realization that, 'Wow, we actually want to spend the rest of our lives together'."

What does the place mean to you?
"Physically, it doesn’t mean much at all, really — the employment center here isn’t exactly the kind of place where you lay out a romantic picnic on your anniversary," says Henrik. "But we’ve often joked about Maija choosing such an unromantic spot for putting such a big question."

For a couple who've never been to this particular place, why should they visit it?
"Good question," says Henrik. "We’ve asked ourselves the same thing. But perhaps you could turn your visit into a pleasant walk. Start at Coffice at the corner of Tjärhovsgatan/Östgötagatan, which is a combined café and office for freelancers. Then walk along Östgötagatan and head for the top. On the way up you can check out the old power plant, a fine old brick building with a copper door designed by Mikael Pauli, the artist. There’s a mosque in there now, amongst other things."

You seem to know your way around here. What can you do after that?
"Then you trim your beard at Barber and Books, a modern barber’s shop, buy some cheese at the Gamla Amsterdam store, flip through the discs at Record Mania and Mosebacke Records, and round things off with a glass of bubbly at the newly opened champagne bar at Södra Teatern, with a view across the whole of Stockholm," says Henrik.

"If it’s a job you’re looking for, on the other hand, you'll have to head east a few blocks — the employment center moved to Tjärhovsgatan several years ago."

 

Nybrokajen, 19.10. Pelle Tamleht, 29, and Pauline Ljungberg, 21.



Photo: Johannes Helje

Moored alongside Nybrokajen are the old boat ferries. The cries of the gulls are a constant reminder that summer is here, and along the quay several couples are huddled together enjoying the view of royal Djurgården. Among them are Pelle and Pauline.

"Right here is where Pelle took the initiative in what became our first kiss, after a night out when he‘d been deejaying," says Pauline. "Although before I could react he’d jumped into a passing taxi without me, saying 'Let’s skip the walk, my discs are too heavy'. So I walked home alone, somewhat miffed."

For a couple who’ve never been here, what does this place have to offer?
"There’s a 7-Eleven nearby with good coffee, and also this is a really nice spot in Stockholm," says Pelle. "And looking at boats is always fun."

 

Vasaparken, 19.35. Anna María Larsson, 23, and Philip Åstmar, 27.



Photo: Johannes Helje 

A few years ago, Vasaparken in the heart of the Vasastan district underwent a much-needed facelift. Today, the park is a popular haunt for pram gangs, picnics and lazy days in the sun. There is a large play area here for the toddlers, football pitches with Astroturf and several outdoor cafés. Vasaparken is one of Anna María and Philip’s favorite parks in Stockholm.

"We’ve had lots of great summer evenings here, both together and with good friends," says Anna María.

When’s the best time to be here?
"Around noon on a Saturday, or perhaps even better on a warm summer evening after a long day’s work."

Why would you recommend Vasaparken to someone who’s never been here?
"It’s nice to sit here undisturbed with a picnic in the sun, although you’re still right in the middle of town," says Philip. "And a hot tip: if you want to avoid screaming children and flying footballs, you should sit on the mound across from Torsgatan."

 

Hammarby Sjöstad, Båtbryggan, 20.46. Simon Bengtsson, 23, and Elin Sandström, 22.



Photo: Johannes Helje

The setting sun is bathing the windows of the newly built waterside complex like a searchlight. The architects of Sweden’s biggest-ever housing project have been careful to make the place lively and interesting. There are gourmet restaurants here, and a library, bars, and boat jetties. At the ferry terminal, we meet Simon and Elin.

"It was actually here we became engaged two years ago," says Elin.

What does this place mean to you?
"Naturally, it means plenty, since it’s a romantic spot that has great memories for us," says Simon.

For couples who’ve never been here, what's the attraction?
"Hammarby Sjöstad is a pleasant place for couples wanting to take a stroll by the water," says Simon. "Here you can hold hands and smooch with a beautiful view as an extra."

 

The Fredhäll cliffs, 21.40. Rosalin Örnefalk, 22, and Love Bertilsson, 25.



Photo: Johannes Helje

The smooth, sloping rocks of Fredhäll are the bathing enthusiasts' best friends. It’s true, swimming right in the middle of Stockholm is no problem. The water is clean and relatively warm. Kayaks paddle past now and then — there's a place around the corner that hires them out. For Rosalin and Love, the cliffs are special.

"We went swimming here on our first date, as I live nearby," says Rosalin. "It was freezing cold so our lips turned blue, but it was fun. Then we went to the Fredhäll restaurant on Stagneliusvägen."

What does the place mean to you?
"
A lot, partly because we had our first date here, but also because we hang around here quite a bit with our friends during the summer," says Love. "You can barbecue, sunbathe and go swimming."

Why should couples come here?
"Because it’s the best bathing spot in Stockholm," says Rosalin. "An incredibly beautiful view, great nature, good rocks and a couple of cafés, restaurants and a really sweet bakery."

Aleksander Kovacevic

Aleksander Kovacevic is a 32-year-old journalist who writes for a number of publications and works as a news reporter for Swedish public service TV, Sveriges Television. Last August, he met the woman of his life and now he's waiting eagerly for her to propose.

"Our very own spot in Stockholm must surely be that rather drab little street bench on Hornsgatspuckeln where we sat and hugged after a party last year," he says. "We fell asleep in each other’s arms and woke up when the sun rose. Just then, we probably never imagined we’d be a couple one day."

The author alone is responsible for the opinions expressed in this article.

Translation: Stephen Croall


 

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