Construction under way in mid-winter darkness. Photo: Ben Nilsson

During November and December, the low hum of snow cannons is often heard around the clock in Jukkasjärvi, about 200 km (124 miles) north of the Arctic Circle. These cannons borrow water from the nearby Torne River and spray it into the crisp, frozen air, creating the snow that is used for the yearly construction of the Icehotel.

The Torne River snow is then sprayed on top of huge steel forms and allowed to freeze. Depending on the air temperature, the forms are removed after one or two days, leaving a free standing maze of packed-snow corridors – the shell of the Icehotel. Dividing walls are then built within the structure to make the rooms and suites.

The massive igloo remains standing until the dark days of winter give way to the sunlight and warmer temperatures of spring. Explaining the sturdiness of the structure, Icehotel architect Åke Larsson says: “By making our own snow, we control the consistency and regulate the water density, producing a building material that contains more water than natural snow. When it freezes, we get walls and a ceiling that are very strong.”

Torne River in the north of Sweden provides an ideal snow and ice for sculpting. The ice is exported to all over the world to be sculpted and put on display as works of art. Photo: Ben Nilsson

A chiseled body of art

The Icehotel features artwork that is sculpted from massive blocks of ice, harvested from the Torne River towards the end of each winter. These blocks are stored in a giant refrigerated warehouse during the off-season, so as to be immediately available when construction work on the next hotel begins.

The artists behind each year’s suites hail from all over the world, and are selected by a jury from the company’s art and design group. With a wide range of creative backgrounds, many of the artists have never even worked with ice before.

Arne Bergh, jury member and Icehotel artistic director, says: “When looking at applicants, experience is important, but ice know-how is not. We look for unique, promising designs that are doable. We look for passionate people who are eager to express themselves in ice.”

Bulgarian duo

Returning for the second season in a row, Bulgarian duo Lilya Pobornikova and Viktor Tsarski did not hesitate to submit a proposal to make another Icehotel suite. “We love the place, the people and the idea,” says Pobornikova. “For us it is one of the most special places in the world.”

Lilya Pobornikova sculpting one of the rooms of the Icehotel. This year will be her second year in the Swedish village of Jukkasjärvi. Photo: Ben Nilsson

Pobornikova has sculpted all over the world, working with everything from stone and wood to fire and snow, while architect Tsarski’s focus is on apartment buildings and housing complexes. The two apply the same zeal when working with ice and snow as they do with other, more permanent materials. “Because it’s going to melt doesn’t mean that you don’t put your heart into it,” says Pobornikova. “Plus, it’s exciting to think that other artists with new, crazy ideas will come and replace it next year.”

British design

Inspired by the idea of working with ice, British designers Ben Rousseau and Jai Drew arrived in late November to start building a suite. The temporary aspects of working with ice did not deter the two, who normally build custom products and interiors. Rousseau says: “I do a lot of event work and dressing that isn’t permanent, so I’m okay with it. And besides, it’s very special for the people who get to experience it.”

Designers Ben Rousseau och Jai Drew are not bothered by the fact that their creations melt once the sun warms Swedish Lapland. On the contrary, they find the concept of temporary art brilliant. Photo: Ben Nilsson

Rousseau’s interest in working with ice was sparked during a visit to the Icehotel a couple of years ago. “I surprised my girlfriend with the trip as a Christmas present,” Rousseau says, “and then proposed to her in our ice suite. I gave her the ring in a box made of ice. She was blown away by it all. The rest is history.”

With regard to the overall experience of helping to create the Icehotel, Rousseau says: “It’s been absolutely amazing. The variation between the artists is great. You take these different personalities from all over, and it just results in this mad collection of international, crazy artwork. Temporary artwork – it’s brilliant.”

Lucia on ice

The hard work of this international group of artists pays off on or around St. Lucia’s Day, when the Icehotel officially opens Absolut Icebar Jukkasjärvi with a Lucia procession, made up of girls and boys from nearby Kiruna.

The Icehotel opens with fire and ice as the traditional Swedish Lucia procession brings some special light to hotel guests and visitors. Photo: Ulrika Hellby 

Observed throughout Sweden on December 13, St. Lucia symbolically brings light to Swedes during the darkest period of the year. Long ago, a family’s oldest daughter would dress up in a white robe, wearing a crown of candles, and present saffron buns and coffee to her parents. Today, most Lucia trains are held publicly, with an appointed or chosen Lucia leading the way, while other girls and a few boys (called “star boys”) follow, carrying candles and singing traditional songs.

As the gentle singing voices of the children disappear into the high vaulted ceilings of the Icehotel’s main corridor, flickering candles, visible through the tall columns of ice, cast a soft glow on the snow floor and walls. A feeling of warmth meets the cold winter air, proclaiming the return of Christmas…and the return of the Icehotel.

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Anders Porter is a freelance writer and journalist from California. He lives in Grythyttan, Sweden, about 250 km (155 miles) west of Stockholm. Anders worked as a builder and sculptor at the Icehotel from 2000 to 2003 before he realized that it’s pretty darn cold up there.

The author alone is responsible for the opinions expressed in this article.

Classification: A226EN