August 25 2008, 04:00 PM
Day 16-17: Gotland
By: Stefan Geens
Location: Gothem, Gotland
Click here to enlarge this panorama or see an ultra high-resolution version.
OMG, Gotland is fantastic! The weather didn't cooperate in the end, but never mind: This island must have among the highest per capita cultural patrimony in Europe — every hamlet, no matter how small, has a church that elsewhere would be the highlight of a trip. The one above is in Gothem, a name given to a jumble of farmhouses around a junction (and about as far away from Gotham as you can imagine). Its tower is an amazing 47 meters tall and dates from the 1350s; on the flat plains of Gotland, it looks even taller. I took a panorama of the inside as well, where the decorations are eyepopping — I'll add that one soon.
The inscription on the tombstone above is kind of funny — the top part is actually one big advertisement/boast for the fact that the person mentioned, church warden Morten Söderström, paid for the grave. Down below, we find the two people buried there. I can't help but wonder what the back story to that is.
I also ended up taking the ferry to Fårö, off the northeast of Gotland — again, in gray weather. I drove to the Fårö light tower, saw those limestone pillars near the sea called rauks, and even walked on the beach where Ingmar Bergman got his inspiration from. I've got a panorama from a fishing village on Fårö as well — another one to add in the coming week.
(Oh, and BTW, on Fårö ("Sheep Island" in Swedish) all the sheep are black — which kind of negates the point of being a black sheep, no?)
Visby, the Hanseatic-era capital of Gotland, is remarkably beautiful and preserved. Enough sophisticated Stockholmers come here on weekends all year round for there to be great restaurants and nightlife. In a way, Visby is Stockholm writ small, but with all the same amenities. I started fantasizing about making a coffee table book of Gotland's churches, and needing to move to Visby for the project...
But alas, this morning (Monday) early I took the ferry back to Nynäshamn and drove on to Stockholm, where I've now dropped off the Volvo with 5,320 kilometers added to the odometer; that's about the same distance as from Los Angeles to Fairbanks, Alaska. Over the 17 days of this project, that's averaged 320 kilometers per day. Though it wasn't planned, it turns out I've also managed to cross all 25 Swedish counties (län).
I've got a couple more posts to go before this blog takes a sabbatical, so do come back a couple more times this week. But first, I'm going to go sit in front of the TV, for a change. Is the olympics still on?
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